By Hannamaija Tuovila, Annu Markkula & Päivi Petänen. VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland
Consumers play a significant role in advancing the uptake sustainable fashion by engaging in more responsible consumption practises. In order to facilitate the widespread adoption of sustainable fashion, it is essential that consumers have access to diverse solutions. The challenge lies in steering consumers to select sustainable alternatives over (ultra)fast fashion and motivating their involvement in sufficiency-oriented purchasing behaviours. However, consumers should not be viewed as passive recipients of sustainable alternatives – they should be empowered to actively contribute to shaping a sustainable fashion system. In the CRAFT-IT4SD project, we addressed this issue by conducting research interviews with 14 sustainable fashion companies in Finland, Romania, Spain, and Denmark during 2024–2025. We examined their methods for engaging customers in sufficiency-oriented consumption within their local settings. The interviewed fashion companies employed various sufficiency-based business models, focusing on local production, fashion rental, second-hand, made-to-measure garments, customization, zero-waste production, remake (upcycling and repurposing) and refurbishing. Below we summarize the key points from the research interviews.
Offering alternative ways to enjoy fashion
To steer consumers towards alternative ways of enjoying fashion and focusing on long-term orientation of garments, the companies focused on offering second-hand purchasing, sharing models or investing in timeless design and garments made from quality materials. The consumers were supported to choose the alternative consumption choices by, for example, providing convenience by making second hand purchasing as easy as any other retail with multiple customer journey points; by providing an alternative to owning garments with fashion rental offered in a physical location to serve local customers; and by communicating real-life stories of customers on the longevity of the garments, and by sharing tips on how to care for the products.
Consciously not encouraging impulse buying
Many of the companies identified overconsumption as the key challenge they aim to tackle with their business model. To steer the consumers away from impulse buying, various strategies were implemented, including a pre-order system, that makes the customer think carefully, whether they need the garment; or employing a “no-discount” policy, to highlight the true value of the garments and encouraging customers to adopt a more mindful purchasing practice. The slow-fashion approach was also embraced as a counterstrike to impulse purchasing. This was enabled by, for example, demonstrating the production of garments and the time needed to create them by local value chains.
Strengthening the emotional connection to garments
To increase the customers’ willingness to take care of the fashion items they purchase, the companies aimed at strengthening the creation of an emotional bond with the garment. This was done, for example, by engaging customers to be a part of the design process, by creating made-to-measure garments in collaboration with the end-users, or by utilizing existing customers in fitting of new designs and enabling them to provide feedback. The emotional connectedness was also enhanced by communicating and illustrating the story behind the garment and its creator. This was also seen as a means to increase the consumers’ appreciation of local crafts and commitment to the sustainable brands and their mission.
Supporting the development of “circular skills” in local communities
To steer consumers towards more sufficiency-oriented consumption practises, the companies also saw the development of circular skills necessary. This was done by actively communicating on how to maintain and care for the items through, for example, blogs and social media. Some of the companies also held regular workshops, where customers were invited to come and learn how to repair and refurbish their existing garments, or even to create garments by themselves from leftover fabrics with the help of a professional. Providing means to enhance the maintenance skills of customers was seen as important in increasing sustainable fashion. Acting together with the local communities and raising awareness of the challenges of the fashion industry were also key missions of the companies.
Taking shared responsibility for sufficiency in fashion
By adopting innovative business models, these companies aim to drive significant societal changes in fashion consumption patterns. Rather than assigning the responsibility for sustainable practices solely to consumers, they foster collaborative engagement with both customers and local communities to collectively advance sustainability objectives. Leveraging local value chains and prioritising meaningful customer interactions are recognised as strategies that not only enhance consumer value but also address the challenges posed by (ultra) fast fashion and unsustainable consumption.
Sources:
Tuovila, H., Petänen, P. & Markkula, A. (2025, June 24-26). Supporting User Resource Stewardship with Sufficiency-based Circular Business Models [Extended abstract presentation]. 10th International Conference on New Business Models NBM2025, Reykjavik, Iceland.