By Tommi Karjalainen and Joonas Leinonen. Oulu University of Applied Sciences

In recent years, LED technology has moved beyond conventional lighting into the realm of fashion and performance. As LEDs become more affordable, energy-efficient, and adaptable, they offer exciting possibilities for small businesses and creatives working in textiles, wearable tech, and the performing arts. This article explores how sustainable LED solutions, combined with open-source tools and accessible design practices, can empower SMEs to innovate, express, and connect through light.

LEDs in Fashion and Performing Arts

Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) have become the cornerstone of modern lighting technology. Unlike traditional incandescent bulbs or fluorescent lamps, which rely on heat or gas discharge and suffer from significant energy losses, LEDs use semiconductors to convert electricity directly into light with remarkable efficiency. This approach makes LEDs not only energy-efficient but also highly durable and reliable. Over the past few decades, LED technology has advanced rapidly, driven by its low power consumption, long operational life, and robust construction. LEDs are widely used, for example in displays and automotive lighting. (Yam & Hassan, 2005)

In addition to consumer lighting fixtures, increasingly affordable LEDs have also made their way into clothing and accessory designs. As a practical example inspired by pedestrian and cyclist safety, picture a wooly hat fitted with a removable LED light, providing light and visibility for its wearer. In performing arts, such as dance, theater and music, LED designs allow performers to synchronize light with movement or sound. Performers may use motion-triggered or audio-reactive LEDs, and the lights may be directly controlled via a physical interface by the performers themselves or wirelessly by a lighting operator. LED integrated costumes and garments enhance the performance by extending the means of expression for the performer and adding a layer of visual content for the audience.

The Snow Queen – Lighting the Dress for the Grand Stage

Wearable LED technology and sustainable costuming is explored in CRAFT-IT4SD project’s second Finnish pilot led by Oulu University of Applied Sciences (Oamk). Oamk’s upcoming Snow Queen ballet production for 2026 will feature an LED-integrated dress, which is partly fabricated from upcycled used coffee packets. In addition to integrated lighting, the upcycled dress will serve as a case-study in sustainable costuming – a framework which aims to reduce textile and electronical waste in an industry where costumes are often crafted for and used in a single production run.

FIGURE 1. PROTOTYPE TOP HAT FEATURING PROGRAMMABLE LED LIGHTING. Source: Oulu University of Applied Sciences

The CRAFT-IT4SD team from Oamk has tested and prototyped suitable LED lights and control circuits alongside software options for controlling the LEDs. Early prototypes include an LED-adorned top hat sporting a wirelessly programmable LED-strip matrix with colour, pattern and dimming support. The addressable LED’s can be controlled wirelessly with open-source WLED software, which runs on common ESP8266 or ESP32 microcontrollers. The WLED software provides a user-friendly web interface for configuring the lights as well as mobile app support. Further creative programming, such as motion or audio reactivity, can be achieved using TouchDesigner, a software platform and visual programming language that features a node-based multimedia workflow. It allows users to connect various media inputs or files to various media output protocols, including DMX control for lighting systems.

LED Resources and Costs

To create LED elements for clothing, a basic understanding of electronics and beginner-level coding may be required. Fortunately, many tutorials are available online, and platforms like Adafruit and SparkFun offer starter kits and comprehensive guides. Additionally, some coding tasks can be assisted by AI models such as ChatGPT-5 or Google Gemini 2.5, making the process more accessible.

The costs of creating LED clothing varies by component categories and materials used. Here are some key components and estimates of their prices:

Component	Description	Estimated price (€)
LED Strips	Flexible, sewable LEDs (e.g., NeoPixels)	10–30 € per meter
Microcontrollers	Arduino, ESP32 Mini Sparkle Motion, Raspberry Pi Pico	5–25 €
Power supply	Rechargeable Li-ion battery packs or USB power banks	10–20 €
Conductive Wire	Used to connect LEDs to controllers	5–15 € per roll
Control Software	WLED, Arduino IDE, CircuitPython	Free
Fabric & Accessories	Base garments, Velcro, enclosures	Varies

TABLE 1. EXAMPLE COST STRUCTURE FOR LED DESIGNS. Source: Tommi Karjalainen, Oulu University of Applied Sciences.

Based on these estimates, integrating LED features to clothing may increase production costs by approximately 30–80 €, depending on the materials and complexity involved. These costs can be reduced through bulk purchasing and optimized design choices. The final price is influenced by the type of electronics used and the desired functionality. For simpler applications, small businesses might consider offering LED garment add-ons that integrate with existing smart home lighting products, such as compatible LED strips. In such cases, programming and control can be managed by the original lighting manufacturer, reducing the technical burden on the designer or end-user. For pilot projects, initial costs and time investment may be higher due to prototyping and testing. However, with continued experimentation and learning, integrating LEDs into clothing can become a feasible and creative opportunity for small businesses and entrepreneurs, even with limited resources.

Challenges and Opportunities for SMEs

Integrating LED designs into clothing or accessories presents both challenges and exciting opportunities for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). One major challenge is ensuring that LED-enhanced clothing remains wearable and washable. Integrating electronics into textiles requires thoughtful design, especially when it comes to battery packs, which must be lightweight and safe. Modular designs with removable components can help address both power and cleaning concerns.

Programming LEDs (e.g. with Arduino or Raspberry Pi) may require basic knowledge of electronics and coding. While platforms like WLED offer built-in control features that reduce the need for complex programming, choosing the right components can still be overwhelming. Consulting with experts may be helpful for selecting reliable and compatible gear. Although LEDs themselves are affordable, the total cost can rise when factoring in controllers, sensors, and labor. Cost management presents a challenge, especially for low volume products.

Despite these challenges, LEDs present many creative opportunities for entrepreneurs with an open mindset. LED fashion that responds to music, movement, or touch can be especially appealing for events, festivals, or nightlife fashion. Personalized or customizable LED designs may attract niche audiences and serve specific customer groups such as performers, cosplay enthusiasts, or safety-conscious consumers (e.g., runners, cyclists). Partnerships with local artists, musicians, or influencers can help SMEs co-create LED fashion that tells a story or supports a cause. A good idea, grounded in realistic component choices and sustainability in mind, goes a long way.

Sustainability Considerations

For SMEs in the fashion sector, addressing sustainability is essential, not only to meet consumer expectations but also to comply with evolving European Union (EU) regulations. LEDs often contain plastics and metals, which can contribute to environmental harm if not managed responsibly. To reduce this footprint, businesses can choose eco-friendly base fabrics like organic cotton or recycled polyester and seek suppliers offering recyclable or biodegradable electronic components.

While LEDs are more energy-efficient than traditional lighting, battery production and disposal still pose environmental risks. Using rechargeable batteries and minimizing power consumption are practical steps toward sustainability. Fast fashion and electronic waste are major environmental challenges. LED garments should be designed to be durable, modular, and repairable. Removable LEDs and batteries allow for safe washing and easier maintenance.

Offering repair services or do-it-yourself guides can extend product life and reduce waste. Businesses can include care instructions via NFC tags attached to garments. These tags link to digital content hosted on the Open Connector platform (https://portal.open-connector.com/), which is free for SMEs to use. This supports transparency and encourages responsible product use. Proper disposal of electronic components is crucial. SMEs can implement take-back programs or partner with certified e-waste recyclers to ensure proper handling of discarded items.

The EU is actively guiding businesses toward sustainable practices. For example, the Digital Product Passport (DPP) will require companies to disclose product origin, materials, environmental impact, and disposal instructions (Publications Office of the European Union, 2024). To comply with the DPP regulations, the product information can be added to the Open Connector platform. The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles aims for all textiles on the EU market to be durable, repairable, and recyclable by 2030 (European Commission, n.d.-a). In addition, LED garments fall under the WEEE Directive, which governs the collection and recycling of electronic components to support the circular economy and re-use of critical raw materials (European Commission, n.d.-b).

Navigating the various EU regulations may feel overwhelming for small businesses. Industry unions have a responsibility to support entrepreneurs by offering up-to-date information, workshops, and connections to help implement electronics like LEDs in clothing design. While LED clothing introduces sustainability challenges, thoughtful design, responsible sourcing, and compliance with EU regulations can significantly reduce environmental impact. For SMEs, sustainability isn’t just a requirement; it can be a unique selling point that resonates with conscious consumers and supports the green transition.

Closing thoughts

LED technology in clothing is no longer limited to large fashion houses or luxury products. With accessible tools and growing interest in immersive and expressive fashion, small businesses and independent creatives can now use LEDs to stand out, tell stories, and connect with audiences in new and meaningful ways. By prioritizing sustainability, through considerate material choices, energy-efficient components, and responsible product lifecycle planning, entrepreneurs can innovate while minimizing environmental impact. Whether you’re a fashion startup, a local performer, or a do-it-yourself enthusiast, the future of wearable light shines brightly, and it can be sustainable too.

REFERENCES

Derivative. (n.d.). TouchDesigner. Derivative. https://derivative.ca

European Commission. (n.d.-a). EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles. https://environment.ec.europa.eu/strategy/textiles-strategy_en

European Commission. (n.d.-b). Waste from Electrical and Electronic Equipment (WEEE). https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/waste-and-recycling/waste-electrical-and-electronic-equipment-weee_en

Publications Office of the European Union. (2024, September 27) EU’s Digital Product Passport: Advancing transparency and sustainability. https://data.europa.eu/en/news-events/news/eus-digital-product-passport-advancing-transparency-and-sustainability

Schwinne, C. (n.d.). WLED Knowledge Base. https://kno.wled.ge/

Yam, F. K., & Hassan, Z. (2005). Innovative advances in LED technology. Microelectronics Journal, 36(2), 129–137. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mejo.2004.11.008